January 4, 2011

A Considerable Collection

Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915
LACMA Resnick Pavilion, October 2, 2010–March 6, 2011

Essay by Nancy Cantwell
Photography by Nancy Baron

Dress, England, 1845-49 Fashioning Fashion, one of the inaugural exhibitions of the Renzo Piano designed Lynda and Stewart Resnick Pavilion, is a trove of European clothing that speaks to both the evolution of style and the historical narrative of technical innovation covering a span of more than two hundred years. The show is the culmination of the gift from donors Michael and Ellen Michelson and Suzanne Saperstein, that when integrated with the objects and holdings of the LACMA’s Costume and Textile departments, now make Los Angeles a destination of consequence for European costume studies. Stewards Sharon S. Takeda, department head and senior curator along with co-curator Kay Spilker have culled nearly two hundred rare highlights from the immense thousand-piece collection amassed over  50 years of acquisitions by dealers Martin Kamer of London, England  and Wolfgang Ruf of Beckenried, Switzerland. In a statement Takeda observes, “The addition of this extraordinary collection is a coup simply for the breadth and depth. But even more significantly for its overall quality and number of extremely rare pieces-shown widely in this exhibition.”

As one navigates the the show, organized by the thematic sections Timeline, Textile, Tailoring and Trim there is a palpable sense of drama fueled by the socio-polical narrative of a European society being transformed by wars, revolution, industrialization and the emergence of a burgeoning middle class. For two centuries, from the Age of Enlightenment to the onset of World War I, we can track the shift in taste from aristocratic court-inspired opulence to a fashion that reflected style possibilities more closely aligned with the expanded trade routes, manufacturing processes and technological advances of the day. Research scholar Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell affirms in her catalog essay, “Indeed, the more we delve into the history of fashion in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the more familiar it looks. This period witnessed the birth of the fashion industry as we know it today—that is, seasonal, international and corporate.”

There is a tangible seduction about the collection and a strong operatic quality of intrigue and beguilement as one traverses through the years engaging with these extraordinary sewn artworks. Designed by renowned opera stage designers Pier Luigi Pizzi and Massimo Pizzi Gasparon, each dress, suit, cap and vest seems to not only to manifest its own place in history, but also bears evidence to individual character, principle players on history’s stage. John Galliano, head designer for Christian Dior, is no stranger to dramatic affect in his designs nor his personage. LACMA had definitely chosen the right man to preview the collection and write the Preface to the remarkable catalog, designed by Pentagram’s Abbott Miller, that accompanies the show. Gallinano’s pick to illustrate the concept of how a piece of clothing can transform character is the Revolutionary Vest, French 1789-94. Made of linen canvas with silk needle point, this precursor to the protest tee, is rife with revolutionary symbolism. “You can spend hours studying this vest. It gives many clues about the turbulent time, weaving style with politics, rebellion, and the ‘tricolore’. Here fashion speaks its owners mind through intricate needlework and beauty rather than through the violence of the day.” The embroidered caterpillar collar represents how the aristocracy once dressed “en chenille” or casual in appearance by day, and then morph into the showy butterfly by night. Again as Galliano aptly points out, “The vest is both a political and a fashion statement that captures the mood at the beginning of a new era. It also shows how style reacted, like a fickle mirror, and instantly rejected the gaudy finery so beloved before.”

Revolutionary Vest, France 1789-94

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Both men and women are given equal opportunity to shine in the details of the embroidery, the exactitude of the tailoring, the exoticism of the fabrics and the inventiveness of the reshaped silhouette. The embellishment of the body begins early and these two boy’s frocks are striking examples of both the growing global trade economies and the technological advances of times. The two following descriptions are extracts from the catalog.

Left: This English boy’s frock is made of soft, lightweight cashmere twill woven in Kashmir. Prior to being cut and sewn, professional Indian embroiderers utilizing silk embroidery thread, probably imported from China, embellished the fabric with traditional stylized floral motifs that featured curved tips (buta) often seen on Kashmir shawls.

Right: The boy’s frock incorporates a white-work technique, broderie anglaise, in which small eyelets are outlined with sturdy embroidery stitches and cut out of the ground fabric. Although the result resembled lace, it could withstand frequent washing and was therefore practical for children’s clothing. Technically very simple, this imitation lace was lower in cost that real lace, and it became increasingly available as the nineteenth century progressed. Ironically, this “democratic” decoration owed its affordability to the meager wages given to the female and child laborers who often produced it.

please click to enlarge for garment details

Boy's Frock, Kashmir, c. 1855   Boy's Frock, England c. 1855

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If ever there was a dress that Violetta Valery, the famed and fated courtesan of La Traviata, would favor it is this moiré finished silk gown. The temptation of this sensuous material alone would keep Verdi’s heroine of ill repute ripe with clientele. The Japanese inspired butterfly-and-flower motif was produced using a mechanical process of roller-printing warps (shadow printing) meant to simulate the chiné à la branche, whose characteristic hazy, impressionist patterns might give our Lady of the Camellias the aura of walking on water.

Dress, France, c. 1865, Detail Dress, France, c. 1865

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The allure of Fashioning Fashion is far reaching from the lavish court gowns, adorned with silk passementerie, to men’s silk cut and voided velvet suits, laden with embroidery. Casting an eye back from the 21st century where clothing has been stripped of most extravagant ornament in favor of more serviceable purposes, it is hard to imagine the kind of functionality all the finery afforded and what real freedoms were accorded in wearing so much, but being given the opportunity to explore these sensibilities in close proximity and collected under one roof is the real luxury of modern times.

Photography © Nancy Baron

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August 13, 2009

The End – Rallying to Save Film at LACMA

Martin ScorseseJust in case the news has not reached our audience yet, please pay note to what is happening at LACMA.

Click here to read Martin Scorsese: An Open letter to Michael Govan and LACMA

On July 28, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art announced it would be scrapping its 40-year-old weekend film program, a result of declining audiences and losses of about $1 million over the last decade.  LACMA director Michael Govan said the museum considers this “a pause for re-thinking” while the staff creates a more adventurous program. Since then, several supporters of the program, including a group that calls itself Save Film at LACMA, have spoken out about the decision. LACMA’s film program is scheduled to cease after its final offering, “The Classic Films of Alain Resnais,” Oct. 2 to 17.

And Please Sign the Petition!

http://www.thepetitionsite.com/1/save-LACMA-film

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May 7, 2009

Richard Serra Serves His Goddess

By Guy Zimmerman

In various spiritual traditions it’s common to hear the feminine identified with some version of open-ness or space, while the masculine is identified with form or substance. In Buddhist iconography, for example, wisdom is viewed as a quality of open space and as a feminine attribute. The womb, with its potential for birth, is evoked as an image. But in certain esoteric tantric disciplines Shiva, the masculine principle, is identified with root awareness – the ground out of which experience arises – and his consort Shakti is identified as…well…everything else. The feminine here is the profusion of all that can be experienced. A recent encounter with two sculptures by Richard Serra underscored for me what this shift is about.

Sequence_1In search of inner peace a few weeks ago I paid a visit to the Broad collection at LACMA and spent time with the two massive Serra sculptures that occupy the two wings of the ground floor. Sequence, in the Western gallery, involves two hundred and thirteen metric tons of steel rolled into twelve foot high sheets that wind along side each other in graceful nested curves you can walk through. Doing so, for me, was a potent experience. The Paleolithic steel walls rose up in narrow canyons that seemed to resonate dissonantly with hidden energy centers in my body. Overwhelmed, I staggered out the other side and had to find a bench. But as powerful as Sequence is Band, in the Eastern wing, is the truly remarkable work of art.

Standing in the Eastern gallery with Band you have the feeling that there is no valid reason to be anywhere else. Composed of the same twelve foot high steel walls as Sequence, Band somehow ennobles the space it occupies (this, of course, is what sculpture is supposed to do.) The curving walls flow up and back with the grace of a dance move, but without surrendering any of their convincing weight. You become aware, as you walk in and out of Band’s circular, heart-like chambers, of time slowing and then accelerating again. If you’re like me you imagine, if only for a moment, that you are not walking at all and that it is the steel walls that are in movement, flowing past and around you. Other polarities that typically animate Serra’s art – hard and soft, simplicity and extravagance, mystery and blunt physicality – here seem to achieve a new harmony of purpose that lightens the heart. It’s as if Serra’s work is showing us how to contain our own opposites.band_1

Emergence, emergent form are juicy but also slippery concepts used in various scientific disciplines to describe how a simple process suddenly up shifts to a radically higher level of order. Various random air currents in the Gulf of Mexico suddenly begin to reinforce each other and the “emergent form” of a hurricane slamming into New Orleans is the result. Emergence is certainly a useful idea when thinking about the evolution of an artist’s style over the course of a lifetime. As they struggle against the resistance of the material in which they work, significant artists often reach a stage where an entirely new kind of harmony becomes possible. Their work from that moment forth becomes about ringing the changes on that new set of possibilities – Jackson Pollack and the first drip paintings…Rothko and his color fields…the sudden appearance in Phillip Guston’s work of cartoonish, hooded KKK figures. I’m tempted to believe this kind of emergence is what you encounter when you wander from the highly dynamic and overwhelming Sequence to the equally dynamic and overwhelming, but also utterly sublime, Band. Out of the same elements Serra has been working and re-working for years a radical new expression opens up.

But this begs the question: what specifically is at work in Band? My gut tells me that the root polarity in Band must be discussed in terms of male and female archetypes. Serra, certainly, has always registered strongly in this arena. A hyper-masculine figure seeking dominance with hard hat and cauldrons of molten ore, Serra early on adopted a minimalist stance that excluded anything hinting at softness. And yet here, in Band, what Serra seems to have been aiming at all along was the creation of an undulating container for everything that surrounds it, as if the masculine, at the final degree of its austerity revealed itself to be an altar for feminine abundance. The walls curve and flow the way they do because constant change is the nature of what they seek to contain and support. At rest in this masculine container we inhabit the profusion of the feminine. Band is a devotional act toward the feminine. It will be interesting to see if Serra continues to mine what feels to me like a very rich vein of artistic gold.

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