subscribeBe Here Nau
by Nancy Cantwell
Putting principles into practice for any organization is challenging and in the world of fashion this is no exception. But for the people of the Nau it’s all in a days work. Theirs is a green goal, a complete commitment from cradle to grave to sustainable business practices, materials and style. Every garment, every accessory is designed, manufactured and distributed looking at the big picture.
Their enthusiasm and eco spirit is infectious. I make a personal commitment to update my wardrobe at least once a year with a piece from Nau and become a bit evangelistic, particularly when I hear of a friend or relative who might be traveling abroad by insisting they consider packing a garment, scarf or satchel on their sojourn. It is one of best ways I can think of to represent what’s great about Americans.
Nau strips theatricality out of their style. Frills and thrills give way to a smart, clean, comfortable wearing. I think Jil Sander would be very happy sporting an Asylum Jacket, Helmut Lang would applaud the Men’s Riding Jacket and I can see Issaye Miyake giving his full support to the multi-use, multi-configurable Chrysalis Dress. Siting inspirations Peter Zumthor, Gerhard Richter, Claudy Jongstra and Copenhagen Cycle Chic, it is no wonder that the aesthetics of Nau run cool.
The company, founded in 2005 by former Nike, Patagonia and Adidas executives, is purposed to create a new model for retailing and manufacturing. Fabrics, trim and hardware are chosen for their sustainable, recycled or organic merit. Where high performance man made fabrics are required Nau seeks to offset the negative aspects of the material by reducing its carbon footprint or shortening the supply chain. Their credo reads Sustainability: Balancing the triple bottom line of people, planet, and profit.
Nau’s initial entry in retailing also reflected it’s out of the box thinking. Each outlet carried the full line for customer hands on look and feel, but when it came to the check out counter they were redirected to the Nau website where an order was placed for home delivery. This practice thwarted the consumer’s need for instant gratification, but cut down on carbon emissions from trucking goods from distribution centers to stores. In 2008 Nau attracted national attention, thanks, in part, to a documentary about the company that aired on the Sundance Channel. Unfortunately it was not enough to stave off it’s impending demise. Up went it’s glorious “Goodbye for Nau” home page.
Not more than a month or so later, the Santa Barbara based lifestyle-apparel company Horny Toad saw a good thing and stepped up to purchase the defunct business. Gone are the stand alone retail stores, but on October 21, 2008 the official relaunch of Nau commenced and has been going strong since.
What initiated my need to engage on the topic of Nau was not it’s staunch environmental policies but it’s unwavering commitment to being a social progressive force. To start with Nau uses the labor watch dog Verite to monitor all of their overseas factories. Each of their manufactures must comply with a Code of Conduct that addresses issues of child labor, voluntary employment, freedom of association fair and equal treatment, nondiscrimination, compensation, hours of work, overtime, and health and safety. For each Nau purchase 2% is automatically donated to one of their “Partners for Change” philanthropic charities. You can choose between such organizations like Kiva, “Loans that Change Lives”, Breakthrough Institute,” Making Clean Energy Cheap” or Mercy Corps “Unleashing the Potential of People.” At certain times of year that 2% increases to 10% to further invigorate the real relationship between corporate responsibilities and social solutions. Finally (but is anything final for phoenix Nau?) Nau’s 2nd annual $10,000 Grant for Change is awarded to those who “instigate lasting, positive change in their communities.” Nominations are open from May 10th ’til June 11th.
Grant For Change from Alex Hamlin on Vimeo.
I encourage all to take a tour of the Nau website to explore their innovative business model. Check out the “Thought Kitchen” where ideas brew and take shape, “The Collective” where the Nau community of artists, activists and athletes share their stories via video and most importantly, found under “About”, is “The Things We Think About.” Here is a quick glossary of terms you will become acquainted with:
Restricted Substance List (RSL) – We independently test our products against a Restricted Substance List (RSL) of chemicals that, while inexpensive, are environmentally toxic.
Beginning of Life and End of Life (BOL/EOL) strategy. – We look at the energy and resources used to create a fabric, and the opportunities and systems to deal with a product at the end of its useful life. We also distinguish between the life cycle of the garment and the initial and end considerations of its fiber.
True Cost – Cheap, disposable goods accelerate the consumption of resources, as they are bought, broken and pitched in a landfill. And while consumers may get a good deal at the register, the repeated costs of replacing low-quality disposable goods quickly adds up. As individuals we may pay less up front, but in the end we all end up paying environmental and social costs for these lower prices.
Traceability - We seek to implement and use systems that allow us to know where our fibers and fabrics are created and what paths they follow to get to us. By creating relationships with different partners (including Organic Exchange, GOTS, Zque and Asure), we are able to ensure that the standards we have for our materials and products are met by the vendors we work with.
Aesthetic Sustainability – Styles and product details that are considered, timeless, and able to move seamlessly through the day and all its unpredictabilities. Products that look as good on city streets as they perform well in the outdoors
If all of this sounds too virtuous, let me reassure you that you will be oh so happy when you actually wear their softest cashmere or breeze easily from day to night in one of their tough, but tony jackets. The fit is tailored and runs true to size. Nau is now sold in select stores throughout the country, so if you need to go beyond the digital realm use the store locator and get some irreproachable retail therapy!
