subscribeNarcisco Rodriguez lets loose. His signature tightly constructed dress takes on a relaxed volume for Spring 2010. Jackets come in shapes like that of an Apollo command capsule and I am particularly covetous of the longer leather coat. So light, with a perfect shoulder and plenty of deep V. Dresses with shear structuring and pink moth-like pattern cutouts move so sexy. But the real knockouts of the collection are the evening dresses whose hems are cut short in the front and billow to floor length in the back. They demand a grand staircase and film crew to follow.
The fabrics at the Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein gave the collection an immediate appeal. The big time minimalist line felt positively embellished with the addition of expressive ruched crunched “needle punching” fabrics. I particularly like the way he experimented with the shape of the sleeve, whether it be an extended cap which turned a would be nurses’ outfit into something naughty, or an extra long knuckle skimming sleeve that really toys with the proportion of the jacket and dress. While neutrals dominated the color palette, when a lemon dress with the most perfect pushed up over the elbow sleeve did appear it was so welcomed that you wanted to grab the dress right off the model and wear it now.
The Donna Karan collection was an exciting mix of lean sophisticated city strut and ocean urchin. Lots of action at the waistline where the draping sometimes feigned oyster shells that hover over slim pencil skirts or simple ties that give focus to breezy leggy dresses. One particular ensemble was crafted out the the most brilliant modern red that, in this vampire crazed entertainment frenzy, it just might be the ticket. And while I don’t pay a whole lot of attention to makeup at these shows, Pat McGrath’s eye treatment set off the look so successfully that I’m tempted to run out and try some white liner myself.
And one last collection that still lingers and gives me cause to shop. Here are a few from Zero +Maria Cornejo. I just love what happens when the black strap slashes through this silk and the ying yang sandals.
