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Black, White, and Narciso

RTW 2013, New York Fashion Week –

Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs was clearly the master of the change-up at this year’s New York Spring 2013 Ready To Wear. Just when I was getting used to all those funny hats and ample bustlines from fall, (which made no sense too me on the runway, but by the time they made their way into their print editions I was completely sold!) he throws us a total curve ball with lean and clean lines reminiscent of a trip to Warhol’s Factory where Edie Sedgwick might be holding court. A complete palette cleanser of a show and with a long silhouette executed with the cool clear directive for simplicity. The finale was represented by a series gowns and jumpsuits with exceptional and lavish geometric beading that not only represented a pinnacle of workmanship, but summed up the economy of the minimalist message.

Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang offers up another minimalist palette, but these girls pack some amazonian punch. Super sexy and definitely in charge. Wang’s signature urban cool was in for upgrade. At a preview taking place a few days before the show he states, “…. I wanted to start dissecting the pieces, so we played with the idea of suspension and tension through embroidery techniques.” The idea of embroidery on a tough sport look seems an anomaly for Wang, but it was mesmerizing and gave each garment a whole new look, a new kind of tension. As bands of leather swing in suspension the shoes/boots echo the banding, some literally, while others more delicately climb the leg. Another apparent Wang anomaly was how close his razor-edged cutout tops, particularly when rendered in white, come close to feeling lace-like, even fancy. The show progressed from the boxy windbreakers and board shorts to the uber-hot barely there panel dresses that hang on by a thread. For the finale the lights went down to reveal these girls light up like black light posters. A fine finish indeed.
Please take some time with the video. You have to see these clothes walk!

Narciso Rodriguez
Narciso Rodriguez first meteored to fame when Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy walked out of the Cumberland Island Baptist church wearing “the” Rodriguez wedding gown. It was the peak of simplicity and luxury created by a then unknown. Today, sixteen years later, we witness Narciso not only in complete possession of all his designing powers and craftsmanship, but with this, his latest Spring 2013 collection, there is a confidence, a knowing that Rodriguez has spun gold. Jackets cut on the bias seem to melt away from the body effortlessly, while trousers with contrasting tapered stripes boldly stride forth. The entire show has a fluidity and languorous temperament. While both Jacobs and Wang demand some attitude from their women, this Narciso women is in no rush to be seen, knowing that when she arrives it’s the ensemble that will give her the leg up. A blood orange sheath is countered with a strip of deeper magenta sitting atop an inverted triangle cut out turning this deceptively simple dress into a truly sexy affair. Wood laminated palliates were the next mastery, embroidered along the front and back of the bodice of a teal and moss green crepe dress, and this stunning embroidery again cascades the bodice of the boldest of red slip dresses making a case for irresistibility. The last dresses to walk, displayed translucent diaphanous sophistication, but above all they spoke volumes about a sensual perfection.

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