subscribeMenswear Spring / Summer 2011
By Nancy Cantwell
I have to say that I had a much harder time than I expected trying to narrow the field for Menswear Spring 2011, but my first impulse is to run with what really works. This is how I would have sent David de Rothchild packing for his latest eco-crusade expedition aboard Plaskti, in search of Eastern Garbage Patch, an island of trash twice the size of Texas located in the Pacific Ocean. From creative director Alessandro Sartori of Z Zenga, the fashion forward branch of the 100 year Ermenegildo Zegna family empire, this ultra light, multo functional outwear is just the thing for our fearless adventure ecologist. I think Mr. de Rothchild would also feel comfortable wearing material produced by a company such as Zenga, whose commitment to social responsibility can be explored here at Oasi Zenga Project. You can follow David de Rothchild’s voyage at adventureecology.com
Outerwear seems to be favored over the traditional jacket for most shows. Trenches are everywhere, but let’s start at Lavin where Alber Elbaz, along with Lucas Ossendrijver, cooked up some amazing classics. The twist of turning a bomber jacket into a duster is absolute genius. Hooded or not, in suede or something more practical, these coats are an essential piece for spring. While more popular figures of fantasy use their coattails to traverse the realms of the undead, again my mind lights on the nautical, seeing Melville’s Ahab as the character of choice to wear the all noir enselmble on the left. I can imagine him updated, replete with whale bone jewelry, austere and fierce as he skippers the Pequod onward in his monomaniacal search for the “thick-lipped Leviathan” that was the elusive Moby Dick.
Rick Owens men look like they are survivors of some teutonic Wagnerian theme park ride. The short sleeves work particularly well with the long under tee…but, as always, Owens has just killer boots— industrial strength, half dock loader, half God stompers.
Keeping with the full length profile, but striking a far more relaxed pose are hybrid coat/robes at Dior Homme. House designer Kris Van Assche serves up one the finest white trenches of the season. He then moves on to more esoteric shapes. I do like the way the middle coat morphs from lapel jacket tailoring on one side into fabulous Morrocan robe on the other. And I have clear vision of a most refined Japanese gentleman on a hot summer evening, sleeveless, seated on tatami, practicing his kanji calligraphy.
For color this year you just had to go for the cacophony of brights by Raf Simons for Jill Sander. The show’s evening setting at the spectacular gardens of Renaissance-era Tuscan Villa Gamberaia provided the perfect backdrop for these rare birds to take flight. And in contrast to previously discussed silhouettes these slim honed trousers and suits are incisive and exciting.
And finally John Galliano’s men are part Buster Keaton, part Harold Lloyd, but all Proust. The look is light and ready for action whether it be a summer picnic, boat ride or generally just hanging off a clock. These are the finest of duds, most beautifully collared, tied and cuffed, complete in concept like no other than Galliano can do.
America get larger in general and the fashion stays slim. Wearing Jill Sanders’ colors I’d look like a beach-ball… As for the rest these are obviously for the young.